Hello everyone 1st post.
I am at work and Fios just installed my triple play with 980/890 speeds. I am a user of a pfsense box that allows me to protect my family form phishing / unwanted ip ranges and countries / IDS / Special routing /packet inspection and reporting. I was thinking of using the quantum wifi for my Internet of things devices to get them off my main network. Set up pfsense from one of the lan ports on the Fios router and DMZ it. I should then be able to route any traffic through the router just fine in a double nat setup (Xbox VPN and other devices that require port forwarding).
I have read the forums for the last 2 weeks but I dont see many using pfsense.
Thank you in advance for your advice.
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[Networking] pfSense With Fios / Double Nat
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[Networking] DNS server when bridged
So I have disabled the G1100"s wifi, and I'm using my own router for wifi, connected LAN-LAN in bridge mode, and the G1100 supplies all the IP addresses. I have entered the OpenDNS server settings into my router, but I suspect that they are being bypassed and that all of the devices connected to both the G1100 and my router are still using the [unchangeable] Verizon DNS servers. Am I correct?
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IPv6
Did Verizon implement IPv6? I'm able to go to IPv6 only sites without any issues.
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FiOS installation question
My whole home is wired with Ethernet and coaxial. However, where my ONT is going to be installed I believe there’s only coax down there. This coax feeds to a box on our second floor, which then has all the other coax and Ethernet feeding to it.
Would I need to use a MoCA router for this installation? I’m trying to get extenders for the rest of my house too (rooms that don’t have Ethernet) and don’t know which would be compatible with the provider MoCA router.
I’m iffy about the MoCA that can be rented because I feel like these usually have too much firewall and cause NAT issues for the people that play games in my home. What limitations does the provided MoCA have? I’m getting 100/100 service by the way.
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Configuring access point
I am a long-time fios customer for TV, Internet and Phone and we are moving to new construction and have a few questions about best setup for fios router and either an additional access point or the verizon range extender.
Home is new construction. I believe ONT will be outside. The intention is that the Verizon Fios Quantum gateway i already own will be in/near the structured wiring panel in basement where all Cat6 and coax are run from.
In a central point on 2nd floor, I have Cat6 and COAX available for another router/access point.
Service will be gigabit service.
Main streaming TV device will have wired connections available
The point where 2nd floor cat 6 and coax will also feed wired connection to any streaming needs at this TV
I am fine to let Fios quantum gateway be primary router.
Three main questions:
1. Are their benefits to using Verizon range extender or is that better used when only coax available? Suggestions welcome for reasonably priced alternative.
2. I am confused as to best setup of access point. Should same SSID's be used as main router, or should they be different? The wife and kids all have apple devices and stream anything and everything constantly from them and would not want manually switch between access point manually. I have read conflicting information and do not know what is best.
3. Is there anything in the setup that would cause trouble accessing the the streaming tv within the FIOS app when connected to access point?
Thanks.
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New router for gigabit service
Anyone have any recommendations for a gigabit service capable router ? I do not want to use the g1100/actiontec routers. I'm looking for an alternative router that will work with the new gigabit service. (Gigabit throughput)
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"PUBLIC NOTICE OF COPPER RETIREMENT" Question
I was looking at Verizon's copper retirement page and saw my town is on the list. I also saw a new box on a pole but was wondering when I should expect FIOS. When it says "Implementation Date: On or after August 23, 2018" on the notice, does that mean I should expect FIOS after that date or they will stop serving the copper network after that date? Just thinking about getting FIOS is great because of my cable company charging an arm and a leg for service and the picture quality isn't that great.
Also I will post the link of the notice below.
http://www.verizon.com/about/sites/default/files/Copper-Retirement-ID%20-No-2017-03-A-NJ.pdf
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[ONT] ONT Battery unit replacement? Please make the beeping stop!
I have a older SFH ONT 612A installed inside with battery unit mounted on top of it on 50/50Mbps Plan with Telephone. See second link for a picture of a battery unit/PSU that looks like mine. Our shady real estate agent that rented us the house took the battery out of the unit before we moved in, for unknown reasons. The one we got back from him(after we told him it wasn't cool he took it) died within days. Now the "Replace battery" light is red and the battery unit beeps every 30mins(?).
At first, the "Alarm Silence" worked to stop the alarm, but it seems to only disable it temporarily. So we took the battery out (since the ONT runs on a CyberPower UPS anyway) yet the beep continues and now the "Alarm Silence" button does nothing. I thought to buy a replacement battery but I wanted to know my options. I would prefer to not use a battery, or a battery backup unit, at all.
1. Can I use the 12V Aux power input on the PSU if I buy the right adapter?
2. Will FIOS replace the battery unit with a newer one that auto-silences when you remove the battery? See first link below for post about FIOS replacing battery unit for free.
3. If not, will FIOS replace the battery? If so, how much for both the battery and visit?
4. If not, what is the best battery to get for my unit and where?
5. Is there any trick to make my current battery unit stop beeping?
https://forums.verizon.com/t5/Fios-Internet/Beeping-FiOS-terminal-After-Battery-was-Removed/td-p/412879
http://meyermed.com/wp-content/gallery/computers-electronics/img_0540.jpg
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Latest G1100 Firmware?
What's the latest firmware and how does it get upgraded?
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Thinking about switching to FiOS Triple Play - Couple of Questions
Hey guys,
Just a couple of questions. I have FiOS at a different address, but that install was done in 2006 so unsure of current process. Would be switching from my local cable company.
1) In terms of Triple Play with Gigabit, does Verizon use coax, cat5, for both for the ONT > Router run?
2) Would Verizon run a cat5 from the ONT (if placed in basement) to where my router would be on the 2nd floor during the install process? or does that cost extra? If it costs extra, would tipping from the beginning help out? The reason I ask is because all my computer equipment and server is on 2nd floor, and is all hard wired. There's no ethernet going from my 2nd floor to basement.
3) How responsive is the cloud DVR pause, fast forward, rewind?
4) for the Custom TV package, is there any way to easily decode exactly what channels are included with what package? When clicking through each custom TV package, I see tons of channels and duplicates with other custom TV packages. Very annoying to sort through.
Thanks!
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If switching from FIOS..
If switching from FIOS to another ISP does one need to inform them in advance or do they find out when the phone number is ported to the new ISP and the equipment is returned?
TIA
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Can POTS over fiber (not Digital Voice) coexist with FiOS internet
Hi,
A resident at a "copper-retirement" location is curious if FiOS internet can be added to the current POTS/traditional voice over fiber, or if it requires telephony be switched to Digital Voice? (Brooklyn NY)
They don't want to mess with their phone service (that was another thread a few months back). (Imagines calling Verizon to add and activate the internet service, and just connecting their current router into the existing indoor Arris Model ONT1000GI4 ONT with a Cat5e or Cat6 cable, with no change to the phones.)
Thanks.
(And sorry if my search terms didn't turn up previous relevant threads.)
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Check Out My Upload Speed - WOW!
I just got over 1 Gig on a speed test! How's this compare to everyone's speed?
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Verizon FiOS BBU
Recently a truck knocked out the main fiber cable to my block. After repairs the lights on my ONT didn't look right and I had a tech come over to check. That's when I got the bad news that Verizon is phasing out the original existing battery backup units with the rechargeable battery whenever a tech has to visit for any reason. I protested and he called his supervisor who told me he had to remove it. They replaced it with the Power Reserve which all new installs have been getting. This means you get a power adaptor for the ONT. A battery box that holds 12 D cells plugs into a jack on the power adaptor. You have to manually turn on the battery pack when needed to allow the phone service to continue during power outages. I was wondering if there is a UPS unit that puts out DC that could be used to substitute for the D cell pack. One good feature of the BBU was that, besides providing automatic phone backup, it provides protection from power dips etc. With a BBU in place, when there is a power outage the ONT keeps everything active for awhile before dropping to the phone only. I would get the same protection with the D cell pack but they recommend leaving it off until needed even though I don't think it draws much if the AC is up. I guess Verizon is sick of repair calls about the BBU and they convinced the regulators that their D cell solution is good enough. I disagree.
If you have a BBU be thankful. Before I lost my BBU, I recently got the red replace battery indication. I found out about this tip. Disconnect the battery and then remove AC power. You will of course lose the ONT. Wait ten minutes, reconnect the battery, and then restore AC. The BBU will probably work fine for a long period. Mine was fine but I had to give it up.
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[Networking] MI424-WR Rev F Bridge With Netgear R7500v2 Problems
I have been attempting to follow directions posted on this site to get my Netgear Router to work as my primary router with my Actiontec MI424-WR Rev F router handling MOCA functions.
The process I have been following was detailed in this thread http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r26275018-Actiontec-MI424-WR-Rev-F-bridge-with-WRT54GL
I believe this process falls under the "double bridge" method detailed in the FAQ found here http://www.dslreports.com/faq/16077
I have followed the process exactly and I have had some luck but not what I would call a total success. I have been able to get everything working seemingly well with all of my wired and wifi devices able to connect to the internet via my Netgear router and all of my televisions have VoD, on demand and guide functions just as they should.
My problem however is that every two hours or so my network loses connectivity to the internet through the Netgear router. The problem is remedied easily by accessing the Netgear router and selecting the option to "test" my settings under the "internet port" section. During the time this connectivity is lost the television guides, VoD and on demand are also lost.
I've spent time looking this problem up online and it seems to be a DHCP problem with several sources suggesting I disable UPNP on the Actiontec router. The feature seems to have been removed from the router interface but I was able to find a direct link that allows me to still access it which allowed me to turn it off. This still did not help and within two hours my network went down again.
I have noticed another peculiarity in that when I connect my PC via ethernet to the Actiontec router and provide it with an IP/subnet/gateway/dns as instructed by the guide I followed it will then kick the network offline causing all devices connected to the Netgear router to lose internet connectivity.
As I said, I have followed this guide as exactly as I am able with only a single exception. My Actiontec router does not feature a checkbox for "STP" next to the "broadband connection (coax)" entry in the network tab. I've still made sure to check the boxes to enable the different coax and ethernet connections when creating and editing the bridge but every time I've had to skip over checking the "STP" box for broadband coax because it does not exist for me.
I apologize in advance if pleas for help are frowned upon here but I don't really know of any other places to turn to for advice with this problem. My ineptitude seems to have fouled up this process somehow and I'm hoping that with plenty of patience and some kind advice I can get this all sorted out. I can provide any manner of screenshot requested, I just don't really know what information would be important to document or I would have provided some in advance when making this thread.
Thank you all very much for your time and any help you may offer! It is most certainly appreciated!
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[Pricing] Documentation of the move trick (appears to be dead but YMMV)
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AS OF 7/13 THIS APPEARS TO BE DEAD! We have some reports of it working using an additional small trick, but this can't be confirmed by people have actually already done the trick. I have included the small differences needed to get this new method to work, but note that I can't actually test it myself and it is a huge YMMV. Otherwise, I have kept the post as essentially the same as it was when the OG move trick worked, before 7/13.
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A lot of people are asking about how to do the move trick in order to access new customer pricing for GigE provisioning. I'm seeing a lot of the same questions asked over and over, probably because they don't want to scour the main Gigabit thread, which is now over 90 pages long. In order to avoid repeating myself and so that there is a convenient resource for people trying to do this, here's a bit of an explanation of what this trick consists of, plus some instructions that more or less follow how I went through with it.
Basically, in order to accommodate customers who are moving locations, Verizon has a web interface that allows them to put in move orders. Ideally, when a move order is done, a customer is let out of their contract without having to pay an ETF, and gets access to new customer pricing. (This is true most of the time; see caveats in the 'some things to watch out for' section below.) You will otherwise retain the same login information and account number, and the account will be under your name, not that of a spouse or other member of your household. You can even keep your phone number, if you manipulate the web form properly (YMMV).
So. The 'exploit' here is that the web form allows you to move services to any address that the system recognizes as a valid install location for FiOS, including your own. So, when you put in your current service address as the place you're moving to, while it detects that *someone* already has service at that address, it doesn't know that that person is you. Maybe this is because of privacy laws. Maybe this is because of lazy validation procedures. Regardless, as of now - notwithstanding one report to the contrary, from one Redditor several weeks ago, which appears to be the only one so far - the move trick still works. Here's how it goes:
First, make sure you're logged in at the Verizon site. (If you're not logged in, the page will have a dropdown asking if you want to move or if you just want to change the services at your current address - make sure you leave the dropdown on 'Move service to new address.')
Then go here:
https://www.verizon.com/ForyourHome/GoFlow/OrderMove/MovesOrderWelcomeSignin.aspx
Legacy way:
Enter your current address, and submit. It will detect that someone (again, not you) has service there already, and will give you two radio-button options. Choose the one that says 'I want to set up new services. The current resident is moving out.'
New YMMV way:
Enter your address, and make sure to uncheck the 'remember my address' box before submitting. The UI will detect that you are attempting to do a same address move, and redirect you to the regular order page. Once there, press back (you may need to press more than once, to avoid simply being sent back to the regular order page). Enter your current address again. It will detect that someone (again, not you) has service there already, and will give you two radio-button options. Choose the one that says 'I want to set up new services. The current resident is moving out', and submit. If it works, you'll be redirected to a page with new customer pricing that retains all your current account data, as described below. If it doesn't work, you'll be redirected to the regular new customer order page - which has a different design than the legacy MyVerizon order page - and, if you continue with your order, will find that you'll actually be signing up with them under a brand new account, and are not doing the 'move trick' at all.
If you're successful, you'll now have a config page. If you have regular FiOS TV boxes then you'll need Verizon's G1100 Quantum router - if you already have it then hopefully it'll detect this though. When I went through the config page, it initially provided the option to use a 'Customer-provided router'. If you refresh the page before submitting, however, some validation occurs and the system realizes that a customer-provided router is incompatible with ordering their TV equipment. Generally, they do not allow you to choose CableCARDs on this sign up form - though we have one report of a customer who managed to retain CableCARDs on his account without having to call in - so as a result, choosing their router should be for the most part unavoidable on this form. You can call them up and ask them to take the router off or sign-up for CableCARDs later. Note that if you already have a G1100, whether you bought it or are renting, the move page may not detect that, and you may have to call in and remove it from the order in that case as well.
Legacy way:
If you have a phone number that you'd like to keep, then when you're dealing with the phone section, make sure you *skip* the first line of configuration there, and go straight to the sections about directory listings and battery backup:
[att=1]
If you do this, the web interface will allow you to keep your current number (removed my number from the screenshot):
[att=2]
Otherwise it *will* assign you a new number. Moreover, even this is YMMV - we have at least one report below of the web form not being compliant. But it's worth a try, and I encourage anybody trying this out to post their experience here.
New YMMV Way:
The above doesn't work with the YMMV back-button method. You have to call or chat and explain that you're doing a move within the same zip-code, at which point, keeping your old number should be approved.
Other than this there isn't anything very important to say about this configuration - how many set-top boxes you need, whether you want DVR, how many channels you'd like etc etc etc is your choice.
After going through this, on the next page they'll want some address info, and to set a date for installation and disconnection. You can set this to be the same date, for minimal downtime (I was down for only 12 hours, and other people were down for less). That's the entire process.
Some things to watch out for/other thoughts:
Note that while the website, emails etc say they want proof of ownership or a rental agreement or whatever, this doesn't actually matter. While I did call them up in order to confirm that I kept my number, to add CableCARDs, and to remove the Quantum DVR and Quantum router from the order, at no point was I asked to provide proof of ownership or lease at the new address. You may also receive a warning email about your account upcoming disconnection. This is normal and of no consequence. You can safely disregard it as well.
If you go this route, you typically have to return your current TV equipment to Verizon. Your tech will bring and install new boxes. However, we have had one report of someone whose tech merely reactivated the boxes that were already at that location, and just took the new boxes he brought with him back; see here. Still, it's probably best going into the plan on the assumption that you will not be keeping your old hardware.
We have a report from one customer, who already had a GPON ONT, and was doing a same-day disconnect-and-move, that needed to call in to re-provision their internet over Ethernet, rather than Coax (as stupid as that sounds). This could be a possibility, but sounds like a minor nuisance, all told. Similar reports of some delay re-provisioning internet on installation day for those with GPON ONTs have also been described elsewhere in the thread though - best be prepared to call them in case this happens.
Similar to the last bullet point, we also have a couple of reports (#1, #2) of video not being provisioned properly after a move order - IOW video doesn't work at all/is not being output by the ONT, regardless of what video equipment you're using - for people who already have GPON ONTs. Nothing to do about this except call in and get them to do so. While they should be able to enable it remotely, sometimes they'll feel the need to do a truck roll anyway.
We have had a couple of reports (#1, #2) of Verizon attempting to charge an ETF on the first bill with Gigabit on it. While this is hardly a universal occurrence, it remains a possibility. If this does happen to you, stand firm - the second customer at least managed to get credited.
At least one customer got access to new customer pricing without having to sign up for a new contract; unclear how though. Another one also reportedly managed to negotiate pricing within $5 of the customer price. YMMV.
Even though I managed to get the CSR to remove the Quantum Router from my order (as I was using CableCARDs, for which their router/MoCA support isn't necessary), the tech who came out insisted on giving me one. Despite this, Verizon never charged me for it (I'm not using it ATM). So, I guess that's a YMMV way to get a free router...
If you are dealing with CableCARDs - keep in mind that the best way to activate them is via the automated CableCARD hotline at 1-888-897-7499. You may need to hit the cards again and reboot your CableCARD host (iow your TiVo, HDHomeRun, InfiniTV or whatever you have) so that they complete both activation and validation - this gets DRM'd channels to work. Note that if you are upgrading from a BPON ONT (and thus a tech has come out to install it along with your new cards), and have called to modify your order in advance to add CableCARDs, he might be clueless about their activation and insist on nonsense. Though this may ultimately work out in your favor (see previous bullet point).
More info:
Some screenshots and my initial experiences with this:
https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31446318-FiOS-Gigabit-Connection
Some impressions after installation (somewhat technical and irrelevant to anybody using a G1100 as their router):
https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31464033-Experience-with-move-order-plus-tidbit-for-RT-AC68U
Hopefully this is helpful.
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[Networking] G1100 5ghz not working
I'm having an issue with my G1100 router. Recently, I can no longer connect reliably at 5ghz. My devices will connect and then immediately disconnect. If I reboot the router, 5ghz will work again for a day or so, but then the same thing will happen. I have tried changing the channel, but like rebooting the router, it only fixes the issue for a day or so. Prior to this problem starting, everything worked fine for over a year and I have no issues with 2.4ghz.
Has anyone seen this issue?
Rich
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FiOS Mobile App and Internet Only
I was wondering if the FiOS Mobile app was useable for internet only customers. TIA
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Horrible buffering on Youtube
I've got a gigabit connection so streaming 1080p 60FPS youtube videos shouldn't be a big deal, probably no more than 10 Mbps. Yet I'm only halfway through a 15 minute video and this has taken about 30 minutes so far. I can't watch more than about 30 seconds before the video catches with with the buffer and stops. 20 seconds later I might get another 5 seconds of video before it stops again.
I have absolutely no issues with anything else on my network and get close to 900 up and down on a speedtest here. I'm done some searching and followed some suggestions to disable IPv6 in Windows and other suggestions in my Netgear r7000 to make sure it had nothing to do with QoS (disabled). Any clue what could make this so terrible?
The bar that pops up on YT during buffering takes me to the page that shows the network receive 98% HD streams during this time of day. I get that its 6:30 on the east coast, but it's not like I'm taxing my network's capability... I'm only using 1% of the bandwidth available to me. I'm concerned it's related to throttling which will be completely out of my control, but if anyone has other suggestions I'm listening.
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Fios Gigabit over cat5 (not cat5e)
Hello, Need some advice regarding option to upgrade to Verizon gigabit service. I currently have Verizon Fios 75/75. My house is hardwired with cat5 (not cat5e). I understand it is expensive to run new ethernet cables so If I don't upgrade my cat5 will gigabit service just be a waste of money? I have tried to research the subject and I'm getting conflicting answers. Some say that Cat5 can work over shorter runs for near gigabit speeds even though it is not rated for such. Is wifi a possible alternative if cat5 is limiting. Thoughts? Thanks in advance!!!
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